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Cosmetic Ingredients Report by ACTIVON Lab. Vol.08


Relaxing Spa Care to Enjoy at Home

The appearance of the dressing table has changed. With COVID-19, masks have become a necessity for everyday life. Consumers have turned to refrain from going out, reducing makeup and wearing masks. As lifestyles change, the number of "home people” who solve everything at home is greatly increasing, it is characterized by taking a step further from simple cleaning products targeting home people who value relaxation and focusing on products that allow them to enjoy stress relief and relaxation.

Relaxing spa care is defined as body care, hair care and soap & bath care and home spa, and consumers can receive cheap and fast home care at home instead of visiting hair salons and shops using these care products or spending a lot of time and money, which is receiving positive responses and is gaining attention from consumers due to the growing awareness of personal hygiene following the COVID-19 pandemic.

What do consumers think about hair care products? Insight Korea and big data analysis have revealed the perception of hair care. Insight Korea, a specialist in big data analysis, analyzed the 'hair care’ trend as part of a trend report through big data analysis. Consumer perception of hair care products has been confirmed through Deep Mining, a service of big data analysis.

Figure 1. Items of Interest by Type of Hair and Scalp

Consumers were first thinking of shampoo as a product for hair care. In the case of an oily and seborrheic scalp, they appear to be trying to maintain the cleanliness of the scalp through a cooling shampoo, and consumers with seborrheic scalps are highly interested in hair tonic products to supply nutrition. In order to care for damaged hair, not the scalp, references to treatment and essence could be confirmed.

Figure 2. Considerations When Purchasing Hair Care Products

Consumers considered the ingredients of the product as the most important consideration when purchasing hair care products, and seemed to consider whether the product contains harmful ingredients that cause direct irritation as much as it directly touches hair and scalp. In addition, they preferred a subtle scent from fragrant hair, and there were also high comments considering the scent in hair care products.

Figure 3. Concerns about Hair Care Products

Consumers' concerns about hair care products were in the order of chemical surfactants, silicones, hype ads, and parabens, and they mainly expressed concern about ingredients. They seem to be concerned about harmful ingredients because the scalp is irritated when the harmful ingredients of the product directly touch the scalp, and they were wanting ingredients that are less irritating and not harmful.

Through big data, consumers were highly interested in shampoo products for cleanliness among hair care products, and they were concerned about the impact of ingredients such as surfactants and preservatives in the shampoo on the human body.

In the case of parabens and phenoxyethanol, which are used as preservatives that consumers worry about, there are persistent concerns about safety, and papers related to their risks are being published. In addition, in the case of 1,2-Hexanediol, which is used as an antiseptic substitute for preservatives, according to a recently published paper, the risk assessment paper on toxicity on the skin says that it is very toxic at RAW 264.7 and HK-2 cells at a concentration of 1.0%, and experiments to confirm controversy over additional risks are required. This risk controversy will continue in the future and consumers are calling for safer ingredients.

Introducing Activonol-S, a new alternative preservative that is safe from the controversy over the harmfulness of surfactants and preservatives that consumers are concerned about.


Activonol-S

Activonol-S is a three-composition alternative preservative composed of Ethylhexylglycerine, Carprylyl glycol, and 1,10-Decanediol, and it is a composition that creates the optimal synergy of each mixture, and can be used as an antiseptic substitute with an optimum composition ratio for hair care products.


Effect of Activonol-S

MIC(Minimum inhibitory concentration) The five cosmetic-related strains of Staphylococcus aureus, Escherichia coli, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Candida albican, and Aspergillus niger were selected. The antibacterial effect of Activonol-S against five cosmetic-related bacteria through the test method of minimum inhibitory concentration is as follows. Table 1). In the results of each MIC experiment, the antibacterial effects of bacteria and fungi were confirmed, and the same MIC results were found in various pH (pH 5~9) and various temperatures (room temperature ~ 50°C), which is considered to be highly antibacterial in the formulation of various cosmetics and various storage conditions. Figure 4).

Table 1. Antibacterial Effect of Activonol-S against Five Cosmetic-related Bacteria
Figure 4. MIC Test (pH and temperature) under Various Conditions

Dandruff is a typical chronic skin disease that occurs on the scalp, and is caused by Malassezia, a fungus on the skin of the human body. Malassezia furfur is a kind of dermatophyte, and excessive growth of M.furfur is known as a dandruff-causing bacteria that causes dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis. The antibacterial effect of Activonol-S on M.furfur was confirmed through a well diffusion assay, and 1,2-Hexanediol (2%) and Phenoxyethanol (0.5%), which are mainly used in shampoo products, were compared. Figure 5)

Figure 5. Results of Well Diffusion Assay for M. Furfur Bacteria

As a result of Figure 5, compared to 1,2-Hexanediol and Phenoxyethanol, 0.5% of Activonol-S showed antibacterial activity against dandruff, while 1,2-Hexanediol (2.0%) and Phenoxyethanol (0.5%) did not show the effects of antibacterial activity against dandruff at concentrations used in actual products.

Antiseptic Effect of Activonol-S

To confirm the actual antiseptic power of 0.5% Activonol-S, the challenge test was conducted according to the guidelines of the PCPC (Personal Care Products Council) Guideline of 2018.

In 20g of the shampoo formulation, bacterial liquids of E. coli (ATCC8739), Staphylococcus aureus (ATCC6538), and Pseudomonas aeruginosa (ATCC99027) were mixed by adding more than 106 cfu/g so that the initial concentration of each sample was more than 106 cfu/g. Subsequently, a gram of shampoo was taken every 0, 7, 14, and 21 and 28 days to measure the number of probiotics in a culture medium of 25°C for 4 weeks. In addition, the yeast of Candida albicans (ATCC10231), and the fungus of Aspergillus brasiliensis (ATCC16404) were mixed with an initial concentration of more than 105 cfu/g per sample, and then cultivated for 4 weeks in a culture of 25°C, and the number of bacteria was measured by taking 1g of the shampoo at intervals of 0, 7, 14, 21, and 28 days with the bacteria. The test group was Activonol-S, and as a control group, Caprylyl glycol and Ethylhexylglycerin were used alone and compared.

Figure 6. Results of Challenge Test

As shown in Figure 6, the antiseptic results of the shampoo formulation using 0.5% Activonol-S showed that all bacteria were killed on the 7th day after inoculation, and all the fungi were also killed by the 14th day, as shown in Figure 6. It can be used as an antiseptic substitute raw material that exhibits an excellent antiseptic effect compared to the single use of Caprylyl glycol and Ethylhexylglycerin.


Activonol-S, an alternative preservative for the Safe and Effective Hair Care Market

Consumer perception of the hair care market in 2020 was confirmed through big data. Due to the controversy over the harmfulness of surfactants and the change in perception of ingredients such as preservatives, consumers were wanting products with ingredients that were a little safer and more effective. It is estimated that due to its excellent antibacterial effect against dandruff bacteria, it will exhibit a synergistic effect with the ingredient of zinc pyrithione, an ingredient that inhibits dandruff.


Product Name : Activonol-S

Label Name (Cosmetics) : Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, 1,10-Decanediol

INCI Name : Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl glycol, 1,10-Decanediol

Recommended Concentration : 0.5~0.7%

An alternative preservative that is safe, stable, and has excellent antibacterial efficacy as a raw material of EWG Green Grade 1 or lower.

Domestic patent application number: KR20-143892 (Patent registration in progress)

PCT application number: (in progress)


#activonol_s #alternative_preservative #cosmetic #ingredients #haircare #safe #effective #Ethylhexylglycerin #CaprylylGlycol #Decanediol #antibacterial #EWG #greengrade1 #activon


References

[1] 민텔(MINTEL)GNPD / 기준국:미국, 유럽

[1] (MINTEL)GNPD / Reference country: USA, Europe

[2] 인사이트코리아 2020 Cosmetic Trend Report 헤어케어. 2020. 07

[2] Insight Korea 2020 Cosmetic Trend Report Hair Care. 2020. 07

[3] Song U, Kim J. Assessment of the potential risk of 1,2-hexanediol using phytotoxicity and cytotoxicity testing. Ecotoxicology and Environmental Safety 2020;201:110796. doi:10.1016/j.ecoenv.2020.110796.

[4] Personal Care Products Council Technical Guidelines 2018 Edition


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