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Cosmetic Ingredients Report By ACTIVON Lab Vol. 05

Updated: Sep 7


A cosmetic is a part that cannot be forgotten in our life any number of ways from using cleanser, sunscreen to putting on sleeping pack. Lots of people pay attention to social and environmental issues, therefore many cosmetic brands initiate reflecting their mindset and belief in their products. Niche and indie beauty brands follow the trend which are making green, vegan and clean cosmetics. Especially to enter the global market of cosmetic brand, there is necessary thing that figure out the target area’s unique culture and perception. According to those research, it can adjust ingredient of product or marketing strategy. Even in China, where all imported cosmetics are required to be tested on animals, laws have been revised to exempt certain products from testing on animals. Also, starting in Indonesia, where the Halal Security Law came into effect in October 2019, various educational and support projects are being implemented to support the advancement of Muslim countries into Malaysia and Singapore. In Activon R&D Trend View No.6 will introduce about Vegan and Halal cosmetics which are representative of “cosmetics for belief” that transcends ingredients and functions to allow consumption that meets consumer’s value.


Vegan Cosmetics


Vegan cosmetics in Korea are rapidly expanding their space due to environmental concerns and moral consumption. While Vegan and Cruelty-Free have different meaning, the claim to support most Vegan cosmetic brands meets the requirements of Cruelty-Free (no animal experiment) without artificial additives in animal substances. Similarly, using eco-packages.

There is the goal to make product which are the combination of plant-derived components that are effective for skin and artificial components that have been proven to be safe will not harm humans and animals. Before introducing Vegan cosmetics, Let’s summarize the concept of Vegan.

Vegan, complete Vegetarianism

VEGAN refers to vegetarians who eat plant-based like vegetables and fruits rather than meat.

The range gradually expanded to include people who don’t use products made from animals, and it has recently been widely applied to in fashion and beauty industries. A person who doesn’t consume products that arise from animals for protection of animal rights and environmental protection.

VEGANISM is a value that emphasizes animal rights and ethical consumption .

It is a more aggressive concept that avoids not only eating habits but also the use of animal products. This concept gradually focused on vegetarianism for animal protection, and interest in animal welfare increased all over the world, and Veganism spread.

CRUELTY FREE means products that have not been tested on animals or used animal raw materials.

Vegan in the beauty industry

Veganism is expanding its reach not only to food but also to cosmetics and is spreading to the beauty industry. Vegetarian cosmetics does not contain animal ingredients. However, many people still have difficulty recognizing the differences between organic, natural and vegan cosmetics. The word vegan means people who don’t use animal products, but the meaning of vegan is more comprehensive in the beauty market. But, cosmetics containing plant-derived ingredients are similar to “natural cosmetics” and “plant-based cosmetics”, are recognized as perfect vegetarians only if they are certified as Cruelty-Free which does not conduct animal experiments. The company will receive Vegan certification from institutions such as the French “Eve” and add Cruelty-Free certification after confirming whether or not animal experiments have been conducted in the production process through the “Leaping Bunny Program.” In this way, “beauty vegan” is in the spotlight to find “vegan cosmetics” that do not conduct animal experiments and do not use any raw materials for animal cosmetics during the development process.

International Vegan Certification

Korea agency of Vegan Certification

Korea agency of Vegan Certification is a certification given to products that do not use raw materials derived from animals, are controlled to prevent cross-contamination, and are not tested on animals. In 2018, it was designated as a food labeling and advertising authority No.1 by the Korea Food and Drug Safety Agency (KFDA) in accordance with the “Regulations on Labeling of Cosmetics, Certification for Advertising, and Certification of Reliability by Guarantee Authorities.”


The Vegan Society British Vegan Association

The British Vegan Association is a non-profit organization founded in November 1944 by founder Donald Watson and six founding members. As the oldest and most creative VEGAN organization in the world, it is still more active than any other vegetarian organization in the world, spreading the concept and necessity of vegetarians. Through online and offline communities, they conduct various campaigns every year to protect the animal welfare environment and promote human health. More than 30,000 products are registered with Vegan Trademark worldwide, accounting for about 50 percent of them.


EVE VEGAN

EVE VEGAN® is a European certification authority that specializes in the compliance of complete vegetarian products, which are free of animal ingredients and are not tested on animals, to comply with the standards for raw materials, products and services in the food, cosmetics and textiles sectors and issue certificates.


V-Label

The certification of V-Label began in 1977 with the Italian Vegetarian Association. At the European Vegetarian Union Conference, the V-label was used as a common mark for the Vegan symbol, and it has been registered internationally in more than 30 countries across five continents, including Europe, the United States, China, and South Korea. The V-Label trademark applies to items such as food, fiber, fashion and cosmetic. In particular, in cosmetics, producers are required to list all ingredients on product labels, but it is difficult for consumers to know which ingredients are vegetable and which have been certified by vegan. V-Label marks provide easy access to products whose origin, production cycle, cross-contamination and animal experimentation have been considered.


Leaping Bunny Certification

It is a mark to certify that no animal experiments have been conducted on the raw materials or finished products of daily necessities such as cosmetics, toiletries, and detergents. This means that animal experiment have been completely eliminated in all the processes of producing products from raw materials to finished products. It was created in 1996 by The Coalition for Consumer Information on Cosmetics (CCIC), a coalition of eight leading animal rights groups in North America, and is currently participating in many countries.

Various vegan cosmetics

Vegan Skincare Products

1. BONAJOUR [Green Tea Water Bomb]

BONAJOUR is the largest vegetarian-certified brand in Japan. To date, 43 products have been vegan certified. Among them, [Green Tea Water Bomb]is a representative product. [Green Tea Water Bomb] is a water balm that uses green tea extract to tighten skin, improves skin tone with Baobab seed oil, and uses vegetable squalene to prevent moisture from evaporating.

2. MISSHA [Tox Vegan Squeeze Sheet Mask]

MISSHA showed off their Vegan-certified [Tox Vegan Squeeze Sheet Mask] at Eve, France. These masks are made from superfood containing plant-specific fiber such as apple pine, pear tree, carrot colabies, muscat cale, noni coconut, watermelon beet, and pumpkin aduzuki beans, and are remixed in a golden ratio after squeezing. This is a vegan mask sheet product certified by EVE Vegan of France.

3. BEVE [Chaga Revitalizing Serum]

BEVE is a vegan cosmetics brand. All the BEVE products are based on white brich sap similar to natural moisturizing factors. A typical product of BEVE is Chaga Revitalizing Serum, which contains 50% Syracamba solution and Chaga mushroom extract as its main ingredient is Vegan serum.

4. Milk Make Up [VEGAN MILK MOISTURIZER]

Milk Make Up, which started in New York in 2015, is a Cruel tea-free brand that eliminates animal testing and is growing as a 100% vegan brand. It is also a brand that has a partnership with Amore Pacific. [VEGAN MILK MOISTURIZER] is a typical Milk Make Up product. This moisture cream is made from vegetarian milk, such as desert milk and fig milk, and maintains moist moisture. It is made from kalaharimelon, baobab jojoba and aloe vera, which flourish in dry environments.

5. MELIXIR [Vegan Balancing Toner]

MELIXIR is the first company to release vegan skin care products in Korea. 100% vegan cosmetics made from high-quality vegetable ingredients and no animal ingredients. A representative [Vegan Balancing Toner] product is on sale. This is a single ingredient of 100% green tea extract and is effective for sedation of sensitive skin.


Vegan Hair & Body Products

1. PHYTOANSWER [Vegan Hair & body care]

The three new products of PHYTOANSWER consist of shampoo, treatment and body soap. Except for harmful ingredients such as silicon and sulfate, these three products contain plant-derived surfactants extracted from coconut, and are rated France’s EVE vegan 01.

2. SASCO [Hot Cold Aloe Aloe Vera Rub]

Swedish vegan brand SASCO is a massage cream that is effective for relaxing and calming tired skin and is used for stiff areas such as neck, shoulders, back, and feet. It is a vegetarian body care cosmetic certified by the Korea Vegetarian Certification Service, which excludes animal experiments and animal ingredients.

3. BEIGIC [Replenishing Body Oil]

A highly moisturizing elastic tonic oil of the vegan formula that contains 12 kinds of vegetable oils including green coffee bottle oil and wraps the whole body without unpleasant stickiness. Against animal experiments, it is produced as a raw material derived from nature. It is body oil certified by the British Vegan Society.


Branding of Vegan Cosmetics

Vegetarian cosmetics, which pursue minimal impact on the environment, adhere to firm beliefs and philosophy not only in the ingredients contained in the final product, but also in the supply and demand of ingredients, production processes, usage methods and packaging, and encourage users to maintain a consistent lifestyle.


SEASONLY

French brand SEASONLY is a 100% digital brand that diagnoses and delivers cosmetics for each consumer online, offering a skincare line that responds quickly to the changing season’s speed and skin needs throughout the year. Composed of personalized formulers and ingredients, these products are shipped to users immediately after manufacture, so they do not require preservatives.

TYPOLOGY

Digital brand TYPOLOGY, which is also headquartered in France and does not operate offline shops, is designed to fundamentally change cosmetics consumption in a simple and honest way. In particular, the Raw line is made up of healthy ingredients that allow consumers to mix at home to create their own products. The materials are delivered in glass bottles and recycled plastic packages, which are returned to the brand for recycling.


Vegan cosmetic brands place top priority on “naturalness” in their brand image and overall use of their products. It is also characterized by various environmental, seasonal, and daily factors that provide options to subdivide skin problems.

HERSTELLER

“Little Drops” by HERSTLLER is a highly concentrated ampoule line for skin problems that change every day. Instead of purified water, it contains at least 50% to 84% for skin problems, and 9 kinds of water including sedation, moisture, antioxidant, moisturizing, wrinkling, oil control, feeling, moisturizing iol, and boosting serum have been released.

BEIGIC

BEIGIC, which officially launched in Singapore in July, is a vegan beauty skin care brand that uses “green coffee bin oil” extracted from premium coffee beans as its main ingredient. The Brand, which uses premium peruvian coffee beans certified as fair trade and organic ingredients to encourage ethical consumption against animal experiments, emphasizes its naturalness and individuality in advertising visuals, without containing 5 harmful ingredients such as artificial fragrances, artificial pigments, self-fertates (SLS), parabens and silicon.

Have more useful information to your vegan lifestyle on Activon bulletin website board.


Beginning with the will to improve the Earth, the Vegan concept of cosmetics is expressed in its packaging as it’s philosophy. It simply presents a “good package” that doesn’t give up on visual beauty, from boxes decorated with illustrations of raw plants to packages that are completely biodegradable.

BEAUTANIC

The paper box that shows what kind of material BEAUTANIC is made of looks like a botanic book. The package features fine-grained pictures of raw plants in watercolors, reflecting the brand’s organic concept.

MELIXIR

MELIXIR, Korea’s first vegetarian cosmetics and with the slogan “Protecting human and natural health,” sells not only ingredients, but also eco-friendly products that use eco-friendly materials such as corn starch buffer, recyclable containers, etc.

HAECKELS

The brand HAECKELS, which was born in Margate, a coastal city in southeastern England, has a philosophy that unsustainable consumption is an act of sabotage. A cosmetic obtained by extracting an active ingredient of seaweed received in an area is produced, and agar extracted from a cell wall supporting the structure of seaweed is used even in a package. This means that this material is made entirely of natural material and can be biodegradable, so it can be disposed of in a variety of ways. Because the material has the ability to preserve moisture, it can be buried in a garden or flowerpot and used as a replenishing material for maintaining moisture in the soil. Even if the package is thrown into the trash can as it is, it is biodegradable immediately, so it does not harm nature. Since it is originally a material from the sea, it may be decomposed in water and returned to the sea to supply nutrients.


Another movement starting with food and spreading to the beauty industry is halal cosmetics. The market of korsher or halal cosmetics that can be used without religious instruction is also getting bigger.


HALAL permitted by God; HARAM forbidden

HALAL has the religious meaning of God’s consent, but it also has a kind of security mark function that the product has been thoroughly verified in the distribution and storage process, and it is becoming popular among non-Muslims, and is divided into the following three categories.

- Fard (e.g., worship, fasting, pilgrimage to holy places) - Mandub (e.g., spontaneous worship, fasting) - Mubah (e.g.,non-lawful acts, watching TV, eating our)

HARAM is the opposite concept of halal and means ‘prohibited,’ and representative haram is pork, blood, meat (pig or derivative) not slaughtered under Islamic law, alcohol, etc., and foods and industrial products made of such ingredients are also haram.

- Makruh (e.g. smoking, laziness, divorce,etc.) - Haram (prohibited, e.g. portrait or sculpture of Muhammad, consumption of alcohol and pork,etc.)


Halal certification of cosmetics is a recommendation

Halal certification is a way to get close to the main Islamic market. Non-Muslims live in Muslim countries, so customs clearance for non-halal product is not prohibited. This means that certification itself is not an essential requirement for customs clearance.

No international certification standards and requirements vary from institution to institution

Some 300 Halal certification requirements worldwide differ depending on the interpretation of Islamic law. In other words, there is no Halal certification standard that can be used internationally, and the government is moving to allow only authorized certification organizations to label products or to restrict imports. Therefore, thorough preparation is needed when entering the market.


Indonesian Old Halal and New Halal Certification

The government will have the authority to control halalness of products distributed in Indonesia from October 17, 2019, when the Indonesian Decree No.33 of 2014 (Undang Republic Indonesia Nomor 33 Tahun 2014 Tentang Jaminan Produk Halal), which is a law concerning guarantee of halal products promulgated in October 2014, comes into effect. Halal certification for food and beverages will be required from October 17, 2024, and pharmaceutical cosmetics will be required from October 17, 2026. The Halal Product Security Agency (BPJPH) is responsible for the entire process, including application for Halal certification, non-halal product registration, and issuance of Halal certification.


Malaysia does not require halal certification, so there are 3 cosmetic markets in the cosmetics market: halal cosmetics, vegan cosmetics and organic cosmetics. Vegetarian and organic cosmetics that are simply not Halal certified were not considered Halal (against Islamic law), but recently, the preference for Halal certified products is rapidly increasing as vegans and organic products can also contain Halal ingredients


According to the report ‘Opportunities_for_Halal_Beauty_in_Western_Europe’, halal beauty is growing based on Western Europe. We understand that the demand for halal-certified cosmetics will increase at the same time, taking advantage of the increase in consumers’ demand for natural, organic, and clean products due to changes in consumer perception.


Various Halal Cosmetics

1. PHB Ethical Beauty

As a global eco-beauty company in the UK, they have received the Vegan Certification from the UK’s The Vegan Society and the Universal Halal Agency UK’s Halal Certification Authority.

2. Tuesday in Love

A Canadian halal makeup brand manufacturer, all products are certified by ISNA Canada.

3. Chharmony Organic Cosmetics CHOBS has received Vegan Certification from the UK’s The Vegan Society and the Halal (ESMA) Certification from the United Arab Emirates.

4. Inika Organics

It is an Australian brand that owns organic and vegan cosmetics and aims to be 100% natural. They have received the Vegan Certification from the UK’s The Vegan Society and the Halal Certification Authority of Australia, AFIC.


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References

1. Korea agency of Vegan Certification and Services website http://www.vegan-korea.com/

2. The Vegan Society website http://vegansociety.kr/

3. EVE VEGAN website https://www.certification-vegan.org/

4. V-Label Korea website http://vlabel.kr/

5. Cruelty Free international website https://www.crueltyfreeinternational.org/

6. ALLURE website http://www.allurekorea.com/ 비건 뷰티 열풍에 관한 진단 양보람 2020.02.21

7. Seasonly official website https://seasonly.fr/

8. Typology official website https://global.typology.com/

9. Hersteller official website http://www.herstellerbeauty.com/

10. Beigic official website https://www.beigic.com/

11. Packaging of the world website https://www.packagingoftheworld.com/2020/01/beautanic-vegan-skincare.html

12. Melixir official website https://kr.melixirskincare.com/

13. Haeckels official website https://haeckels.co.uk/

14. [신남방 시장보고서 5] 인도네시아 할랄 산업, 한국무역협회, 김태훈, 2019.10

15. TRADE FOCUS 17. 할랄(Halal)시장 수출확대 전략 -중소기업 진출사례를 중심으로-, 한국무역협회, 박소영 외 1명 2017.5

16. TRADE FOCUS .43. 아세안 화장품 시장 진출 방안, 한국무역협회, 김현수 2019.12

17. 화장품 정책ž제도 분석 및 해외진출 지원, 한국보건산업진흥원, 이영찬 2017.12

18. 말레이시아 할랄식품시장 현황, 주말레이시아대사관, 2015


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